Introduction
I first met Stephen Laurent, Lolo, a few years ago. I had a working relationship with his partner Noriko, and while they were still living in Paris, I had the opportunity to meet and work with Noriko at a brand exhibition every season, and I heard more about Lolo and his manufacturing during the conversation.
At that time, they wanted to show me their crafts if we had a chance the right time, I think.
It was only 1-2 years since Accalmie ‘Lolo’s brand’ was established.After that, I heard that the two of them were coming back to Japan together, and we were talking about wanting to see each other. However, it took a long time to arrange and search for the materials store, the paper mill, and other essential items for his production in Japan, and it was difficult to get to the right time.
In the middle of this, Covid-19 began to impact to the world, and I decided to contact him for the first time in a while, as I decided to launch a new online gallery project.
Of course, both of us are confined to our homes so we have time to meet.
I can say that our relationship has tied by COVID-19 in a way.
When we finally met, we talked about what he had been up to. I was able to see his workplace, and learn his craftsmanship.
There was a craft for Noriko and also I could see the work process hewas working on at that time.
It is studded with many details and quality that he proudly and responsibly created by French-style Sadler (horse maker) techniques, and there are some things that are so incredible that the words handmade and hand-sewn cannot simply be used to describe them.
My first impression was “things and assets that will be passed down from generation to generation. ” It doesn’t mean that it’s expensive, but it has the quality to be able to take over time.
With that in mind, I felt very strongly that it was made.
After receiving the general explanation, I asked him straight up why they use crocodile leather, because they represent luxury, or because they are legitimate materials in classical traditions.
The answer was unexpected and he brought me a crocodile bag and a calfskin bag Noriko had used for more than a decade.
What is the difference between the damage accumulated in leather and the aging?
The silver surface remains firmly on the bottom and corners of the crocodile, which is prone to damage, and the original glare is suppressed as a material, and the crocodile leather changes over time gracefully.
As for the calfskin, the damage that makes you feel the passage of time is clearly shown in the details, and in a way, the aging of this leather is sometimes called a “sharp feeling.”
“This is the reason,” he said.
Crocodile skin’s durability as a material is incomparable to other leather materials, he said.To be honest, I was reluctant to use crocodile leather, but his words were able to get in.
It was also my first impression of his craftsmanship that made me even more satisfied.
From there, we started discussing ideas specializing in materials, as mentioned in the conversation.
As a Galerie a, I wanted to bring out a side not found in his previous works, and because of his heavy weight, I wanted to show him a playful output in his manufacturing, in which classic elements appearon the surface.
Among them, I was lucky enough to come across two materials, vegetable tannin-finished slim crocodile leather and natural die super matte-finished black crocodile leather, and in a way I was able to express my own unique style.
After a long period of thought, the title of this exhibition, “Timeless,” contains the meaning of “beauty, talent, charm, etc. that will not fadeover time, “and I felt that it expresses the charm of his work.
In this exhibition, we coordinated and displayed the same timeless furniture and works in order to show our respect for his work and the correlation with the title.
I would appreciate it if you could feel something like that.
Galerie a RepresentativeAkiyoshi
Laurent StephanAccalmie
After photography studied at the Gobelins school Paris, i worked for 10 years in a photo studio specializing in fashion as a traditional shooter and infographist. Then I left the world of image to study saddling-leather goods for 1 year at the school Grégoire-Férrandi Paris (now “La Fabrique”). Then I joined the house of Hermès and worked for 8 years with a specialty in cutting and purchasing crocodile and lizard leather. In 2015 I left Hermès and decided to develop my own bags brand: Accalmie.
Saddler’s work
How come does he make everything stubbornly by hand. And why is it so fascinating.We believe an appeal of the any kinds of works which made by hand is we can feel the maker behind it.The man who used to work at the most high-end luxury production in the world has been making his own here in Japan by French traditional saddler techniques. We are pleased to introduce what we saw and what we’ve learned together with “behind the scene” of his production through all our time spent in the atelier while hearing some speeches by the man who’s normally very quiet.
Moments
miho nakajima
nobuhiko akiyoshi
photo by eri kawamura
Achievements
Appointment
- Gallery opens by appointment only.
- This exhibition opens its door for public by appointment only. If you’d like to have a look at these works, please let us know your preferred date and time to visit us through the form below by the day before you come visit us. We will try to handle all requests for appointment not to overlap each other. Our gallery is located in Shibuya-ward, Tokyo.
- Open gallery
- 2020.12.5 SAT -12.13 SUN 11:00 - 18:00
※ Please be sure to wear a mask to take care of cough etiquette when you come in the space. Please also use hand sanitizer at the entrance. Gallery staff will wear a mask to welcome you.
Credit
- Special Thanks
- Stephan Laurent
Noriko Usami - Gallery Direction
- Nobuhiko Akiyoshi
- Contributors
- Yusuke Shiki
Roca Onishi
Masakado Nishibayashi
Eri Kawamura
Minami Nosaki
Miho Nakajima
Hiroki Osuka
Kazusa Hagiwara
Shinwoo Lee
Yoshichika Tarue
Shoko Akiyoshi
Chizuru Masumura